How to Build a Paint Can Forge

Forge 2.0, WAY better than the porta-pit design

Building a paint can forge is a cheap and fast way to test the waters of forging, which is why I find it attractive.  Even with CA sales tax, my parts list for the much-improved Forge 2.0 was well under $20, including fuel but not including a blower.  This guide will walk you through the construction and operation of Forge 2.0, but does not mean that I am responsible for whatever you do with it.

CONSTRUCTION

Ingredients for a Forge 2.0

The first thing you will want to do is go to your local hardware store and pick up a few things.  Here is the shopping list, and the approximate price at my local OSH.

  • 1 gal paint can, empty with a lid  $5
  • 1/4″ copper pipe endcap              $2
  • roughly 1 ft 1/4″ copper pipe        $2
  • 7 lbs lump charcoal                     $5

The total here is whopping $14.  Optional items that would really improve the quality and usability of the forge are a source of air input, which can be an electric hair dryer, a shopvac, or in my case, an air compressor.  If you do not want to buy these, then you can also just blow into the forge, but you are going to have to get awful breathy.  You might also want to get a butane torch to light your charcoal, but you can also probably use your kitchen stove.

Diagram of the Forge 2.0

Here are some Schematic drawings of Forge 2.0.  It is a good overview of what it should look, inside and out.  Check these out in case you get lost below.  Time to start the build!

Cut out the black parts to make a face. Or a forge, you decide!

Cut out the shaded areas in the image above on your paint can.  I used a dremel and a reinforced cutting disk, however the lid is thin enough that it can be cut with a knife or scissors.  Be sure to leave the lid intact.  Leaving the lid intact makes it easy to remove and re-attach, for easy loading and emptying of the forge.  You want this in case you decide to douse your fire, or if you need to remove ash.

The inside, showing the notched copper pipe

Next, grab that copper pipe and cut some notches in it.  I used a hacksaw for this, but a dremel would also work.  The idea here was that the gas would be distributed along the openings, leading to a more even heat.  It didn’t 100% work, but it seems better than having a single opening.  Then add the end cap, and insert it into the small hole that is cut in the paint can.

Forge 2.0 almost all put together

You should now have something that looks like the above picture, minus the screen.  The screen was based on my experiences with Forge 1.0 and the sparks/exploding charcoal.  I thought a little aluminum screen would keep the sparks and exploders in.  I was wrong!  After firing the forge up, sparks kept flying out, and the screen somehow disappeared, either by being burnt or sheared off.  If you try to make something that prevents the sparks from escaping, it needs to be much finer than 1 mm by 1 mm, and more heat resistant.  Think bug mesh fine.

The next step is to bed your forge in dirt.  This will prevent it from burning whatever you put it on, and it will help insulate the forge, making it hotter inside.  I had some gravely, sandy dirt from my backyard.  It was convenient to put it in the wagon, for transportation, but the wagon is not necessary.

OPERATION

Keepy your eyebrows safe, yo.

To start your forge, put on safety glasses (or a face shield), long sleeves, long pants, and closed toe shoes.  Preferably, you these clothes should be non-synthetic, as they resist catching on fire better.  Then you want to pack the bottom half evenly with charcoal.  This is a good opportunity to use the smaller bits of charcoal to pack the bottom.  You might even want to separate out the small (smaller than a small potato, or about 1″x2″x2″), medium (about fist size), and large (bigger than fist size).  The large pieces will need to be broken down to about medium size, or they will be too hard to manipulate when in the forge, and will block access to the part of the forge that they are in.

Once packed, you can light the charcoal with a butane torch, a stove top, a charcoal lighter, or probably even lighter fluid.  You want to wait until one of the coals is orange-hot, and sparking/smoking.  If a flame appears, that is even better.  Once the coals are started, you are almost done.

Watch out for sparks! And exploders!

At this point you should turn off your torch, if you have one, and start the air.  It is best to have some kind or choke on the air, so that you can control the heat.  Watch out here, because in the forge 2.0 design vents all the gas out of the large hole at the top.  WATCH OUT.  Occasionally small pieces of flaming charcoal will come flying out and EXPLODE, not to mention the regular sparks that will come out.  Be safe y’all.

Now that the air is on, you want to get it up to orange hot, and then you are ready to go!

Orange HOT!

Well, that is it on building Forge 2.0!  Good luck using it.  I am going to post up some notes on Forge 1.0 (porta-pit) vs Forge 2.0 and some ways that Forge 2.0 can be improved to be safer and better.

Paint Can Forge Day Three: Hell and Back

My brother decided to go all B&W during the heat-treat.

Forge 2.0 was a huge success, and the new knife is semi-born, and semi-decent Awesome, because i can shave with it.  Gonna have mad razor burn though.

That copper pipe is orange hot. Steel was a similar color, indicating the metal was at about 930 C or 1705 F.

As you can see here, the forge is still freaking hot.  Hot enough to melt or burn off the aluminum screen on forge 2.0.   More importantly, it is hot enough to heat steel to/past the critical point, so that it can be hardened.  I know the blade is harder now…but I am not sure how much harder.  If it proves to be unsatisfactory, I will re- soften the steel, re-file the bevels, and then harden it again.  This will (hopefully) be possible, due to the new Forge 2.0.  More on Forge 2.0 soon, but after a long day of crouching next to this exploder, it is definitely bedtime now.

Paint Can Forge Day Two: Overmelted

TOO HOT! But the whole thing finally did get past the critical point

So today was slightly tragic.  I started the day with my nice, annealed file that I made yesterday.  Grinding (on a rotating bench grinder) went swimmingly, and after touching up the grinds with my not-annealed file, it was looking pretty sweet.

Mr. Knife, clamped down for some drilling

Look at that handsome devil!  Certainly it could be put to use cutting up small fruits, or peeling carrots, or maybe batoning though some balsa wood.  I was satisfied with the shape, reasonably happy with where I was going to mount the handles, and so I fired up the forge to normalize it.  Things went south from here.

The porta-pit in action!

The problem with the porta-pit is that the bottom is too hot, and the top is too cold.  To give you an idea of the gradient, the bottom is hot enough to slag about 3 inches of steel, but after that there is almost no color in the metal.  It is only by strategically building the charcoal up and giving it a lot of air that I can get the whole 6″ hot.  If I do that, I can get a large jet of VERY HOT gas to come blasting out of the forge, heating the whole thing very slowly.  This is still bad, because I want to evenly heat the whole thing, and not destroy my work.

A super hot jet of gas is coming out of the charcoal. The forge has a loud roar at this point, and sparks and exploding charcoal come our regularly

The short of the long here is that my blade got ruined, and this forge needs a redesign.  I am thinking that If I turn it sideways, the charcoal will be spread out evenly along the bottom.  Even if there is a “hot spot”, there will at least be more area than is accessible in this configuration, because right now only the ends of the metal can get hot.

Ruined blades-to-be

Well, that was sad.  time for more testing!

Paint Can Forge Day One: Porta-Pit

The porta-pit of Hell.

I was going to save this post until I had nice scans of my design, cost, instructions and notes on making a knife for a file, and some classy pictures.  However, the cost/awesome ratio of the paint-can forge caught me off guard.

While my total cost for the forge itself was about $50, it could be brought down to maybe $30 by being slightly smarter than I was, and not buying a giant, expensive torch to light the charcoal.

Here is another post-inferno picture:

My setup for annealing

Here is a wider-view of the porta-pit.  The box of dirt is for insulating a file I am annealing, and the hose is cooling off the forge.  The small box of dirt is full of wood ash, dirt, and the file that I heated up to orange.

This thing is pretty awesome.  Details on building will come soon.

Adventure: Kelsey Mine, Part II (In which we actually find The Kelsey)

The author crawling out of the bottom passage. Success!

My final trip to the Kelsey mine with Hardee and my brother was successful.  There were several reasons for this:

  • Time.  We started out around 9am and did not return to the car until sunset, around 5pm.  We had barely enough time, and you can never have too much daylight.  START EARLY.
  • Equipment.  We had good hiking clothes, good shoes, water, snacks, spare socks, LOTS OF LIGHTS*, and a medium sized knife for cutting away those spiky vines.  We also had a first aid kit.

*You can never, ever have too many flashlights in a mine.  It is 100% dark in a mine, and the small pool of light created by a flashlight is your only way to navigate, unless you are a bat.  I like to bring an headlight and several flashlights with me, just in case.

Some equipment was unnecessary and only slowed us down.  My brother insisted on bringing a huge stack of rope (of unknown origin) and assorted other 30 year old climbing equipment JUST IN CASE.  You know, because it is safer to rap down a waterfall with no training than to just climb back down.  The only real use for this rope was zip-lining his bag-o-crap down the falls so he didn’t fall down carrying it.

Spiky bushes- watch out!

The major hazards encountered en route to the mine were poison oak, thorny bushes, spiky plants, several very dramatically thin trails with large falls where the truck road appears to have been washed out, and several very unstable creek banks that had to be climbed on.  Hazards inside of the mine include a large, ~3 foot deep pit that that can easily be avoided, and a very steep shaft that leads down to two low crawls, as well as very cold water, LOW CEILINGS and possibly some kind of rotting vegetative mass.

We traveled up silver fish truck road until there was a sharp bend to the left, and then dropped into stream bed to our right.  The soil here on the descent was decently packed, and we eventually got to the bottom.  There were signs of habitation or camping in this area, but from a long time ago.  We headed downstream, until it was possible to clamber up on the opposite bank.  The top of the opposite bank had an old mattress on it.  I can’t imagine hauling that up there; maybe it was back in the days of the truck road.  From the opposite bank we could hear water, and we descended the opposite side of the bank to a flowing stream.  This, I believe, was water canyon.  We crossed the stream here, and continued to trek upstream for quite a while.  The going was slow and involved many steep and unstable creek sides, thorny bushes, and possibly poison oak.  Eventually we arrived at the first waterfall.  The remains of an old wooden ladder are here; we are unsure of who constructed it.

Hardee climbs the first waterfall.

 

Here began the waterfall climbing.  There are three falls to need to climb to get to the mine.  You definitely want to keep to the left side of the canyon as you head upstream, because it does branch once and the right fork is not the right way to go!  I suspected that we had reached the mine when the next waterfall was too tall to comfortably climb, and there was large, loose talus, possibly made of mine tailings, to our right (we were headed upstream).

The view from the top of the second falls. The steep, narrow path on the left of the photo appears to be cut out of the rock, and was our ascent route.

After scrambling up the talus, I found the very obvious mine entrance.  There was another entrance or possibly an exploratory tunnel nearby; it did not appear to go anywhere.  The entrance was typically too short for me to stand up in, dark, and unsurprisingly dry, probably due to its elevation above the creek.  After donning our headlamps, grabbing our torches and our map, we were set to enter the mine.  As always, we left our non-essential equipment outside, so we wouldn’t loose it in the mine.

Sign posted outside of the enterance. Ought to say “MINERS MUST BE THIS TALL TO RIDE THE ORE CART”. Watch your head!

The mine is pleasantly complex, with two levels, a steep shaft, several branches, a high ceiling or two.  Unfortunately there was a lot of litter and graffiti, Compared to what I normally see.  Judging by the (empty) case of bud, the giant neon orange “420”, and the numerous beer bottles, there has been at least one party there.  This was surprising, because of how difficult it was to get to.  Maybe this was not always the case, or maybe there were more ladders in the past.  I think the most fun part of the mine is the lower level.  I got a little claustrophobic, but it was magical to crawl through a low passage and discover a flooded passage, full of freezing, crystal clear water, inside of a mountain.

The flooded passage. Difficult to photograph, but very beautiful.

Another cool thing we saw were some copper-bearing minerals or veins.  Here is a picture:

Coppery things!

After exploring the mine, we exited and had a mini-crisis where my brother could not find his phone.  This is why we designate an official camera person, and leave non-essential stuff outside of the mine.  After searching his bags, he couldn’t find it, so back into the mine we went!  Of course, it turned out to be in his bag.  Oh well.  It was still awesome to see the warm glow of sunlight on sycamore leaves as we exited for a second time.

Sunlight never looked so good.

We trekked out the same way we came in, making sure that we reached the trail before the sun started to go down.  I would recommend this trip, as it is full of awesome adventure, and amazing environments.  There are high, exposed chaparrals, a beautiful sycamore forest, a cool, breezy creek bed, waterfalls, and even an old mine to climb and explore!  What more could you ask for?

Adventure: Kelsey Mine, Part I (In which we execute a near-fruitless search)

I may be addicted to adventure.  There is really nothing like tramping out into the mountains, dropping off the beaten trail, climbing up some waterfalls, and then dropping down into an abandoned mine.  I even have an adventure hat, which is mostly silly, but does do the job of swatting away bugs, and keeping the sun out of my eyes.

Every now and then I do realize that adventuring can be scary, and you can really die, but I figure I have to make stories now before I get too old and feeble to get out and do Dumb Things.

My latest Adventure was finding and exploring the Kelsey Mine.  Lost not-so-deep in the Angeles National Forest, it took a whopping three trips to find it.  The first trip was with my friends Katelyn and Rachel, on may 31, 2011.  We took a wrong turn, as you can see on this map:

As you can see, we are not even close to “kind of where we are supposed to be”

We also heard a LOT of rattles in the bushes, which caused us to hasten our return to our vehicle.

The next two attempts were done in late 2011, over Thanksgiving break.  The first one was with Sam and my brother.  We followed the road (silver fish truck trail) on that map until the sharp leftward bend, where we dropped down into what I assume is water canyon. Exploring this involved a lot of crawling up and down through brush, thorny bushes, and spiky vines.  We found a small waterfall, downstream, and a lot of little yellow and brown newt looking things.  After forcing ourselves through a hole in the brush, the upstream route eventually yielded to the floor of a very cool, damp ravine.  The ground was covered in the usual leaf decomposition and dirt detritus.  We made our way up this canyon for maybe another quarter mile, and then decided to turn back on two counts:

  • We found out there were still ticks.  I think Sam got one.
  • Sam had to be home.

Disappointed in our feeble effort to find the mine, I decided to put together another group and go at it again.  Since Sam was busy, and Hardee was not, our party consisted of my brother, Hardee, and I.  Hardee and I have been on a few adventures like this in the past, and I knew I could rely on him.  My brother thinks he knows everything, and can be more than a little cocky, but he is a good climber.  We once again set off to ANF!

This trip was far more successful, and we actually found the mine.  You can read all about how to find it here (Note: we never found the water tower described).  I will probably not post explicit instructions, or detailed topos here, because part of the fun is finding the mine, and if there were spoilers everywhere it would be no fun.  But If you want to read a trip report, with some hints in it, look out for Kelsey Mine, Part II (In which we actually find the mine).

Laser Projector!

My team just finished our laser projector for Priciples Of Engineering, or POE at Olin.  Its pretty sweet-mostly its good at drawing circles, because it decided to shake itself apart.  We will probably fix it up before EXPO on Monday (Olin’s open house), but if you want to take a look at what we did, check out our website (here)!

I might add some more details later, if folks are interested.  However, right now I am going to bed.  As always, if there are questions, ask away.

DIY Bio Postcards, Bioluminescent Dinoflagellates, oh my!

A few weekends ago, I met up with Rachel to try to split some dinoflagellate cultures.  These particular dinoflagellates were p. lunula, and p. noctiluca, which both bioluminesce when mechanically stressed (shaken, tapped, dropped) or when the pH of their media is lowered (by adding acid).  They are absolutely fascinating creatures, and beautiful to boot.  Also, they don’t smell bad, like vibrio fischeri, and they are WAY brighter, although the illumination is not constant.  Another difference between the bioluminescence of the two is that you can actually see the individual algae light up.  With the bacteria, its a large smear that glows.

The little speck in the middle is P. lunula

Unfortunately, we left the f2 media in the -20 freezer (which I leaned is normal freezer temp) while we autoclaved the synthetic seawater (SSW) that we made with “instant ocean” mix from a pet store.  This ended the project for the week, because everyone was pretty tired, and nobody wanted to wait 3-4 hours for the media to thaw.  We got a “good effort” sticker in the notebook that day…

The next week we successfully made the transfer.  The 50x f2 was diluted to 1X in SSW, and two ~500ml cultures were made by mixing the old into the new, and then aliquoting some into smaller containers, some of which stayed at sprout, some of which I think went home with Rachel, and some of which are at BOSSLAB.

ALSO:

If you haven’t heard about the DIYBIO postcard, go here and sign up.  Check out those sweet transformants on the example card (I wonder where those came from)!  It’s free, you will get a sweet postcard, and get some short blurbs about what is going on in DIYBIO.

Transformation 2.0- RISD

A few months ago, I was invited by Sara Wylie to talk to some students at RISD about DIY-Bio, specifically, I was invited to show them how I did my DIY transformation a few months ago.  It was an AWESOME experience, and a lot of interesting topics came up in the area of ethics, and most importantly who should be allowed to practice or regulate biology and biotechnology, which are controversial and important.  And too big for this post, which will be about another exciting transformation!

We used the same procedure, as described before in my transformation post.  I wasn’t around in RI for the next week to check on the plates, but Sara sent me some pictures.  It is interesting that this transformation has the same problems as the previous transformation.

Transformants?

Again, there are what look like contaminants/giant satellite colonies.  Again, the GFP expression is very subtle.  I am curious about what the non-green colonies could be.  Maybe the incubation to express the ampicillin resistance is too long, and the b-galactosidase is breaking down the ampicillin when the cells are plated.  I used the same MM294 strain of e. coli and the same pGREEN plasmid as I did last time, but both were ordered fresh from Carolina Biological.  If I don’t see anything that would explain this in my research on the MM294 and satellite colonies, I will probably try this with a different strain.  Maybe that will be a BOSSLAB project for next year (if you are near Boston, and want in, send me a message!).  Anyways, here is a picture of the same plate under a blue LED.

Transformants expressing GFP, which is fluorescing under a blue LED

Another protip I have from this, and from yesterdays experiment (TSS transformation) is that you should pour your plates way before you intend to spread on them.  This lets them dry out a little bit before you add a bunch of liquid do them.  You can even put them in an incubator to dry them out a little!  We had some difficulty getting the plates at RISD to absorb 100ul of transformants in broth.  Yesterday a plate I had easily absorbed 300ul of transformants and broth, which was poured the day before, and then pre dried in an incubator for 10-15 minutes.  Just keep an eye on them and don’t let them dry out!  By drying them you can also avoid the ring of growth around the outside as seen below.  This seems to be because bacteria get in condensation/broth/wetness on the plate, and then roll around on the plate.  Surface tension keeps it stuck between the plastic wall and the agar, creating the ring.

The ring of BAD. Note growth around the edges of the plate.

Eeew!  So keep your plates dry.  But not too dry.

These bacteria were eventually used in one of the final class projects, here.  There is a pretty swanky picture of a bacto-QR code on that page, definitely check it out.

Coming soon: Dinoflagellates and MORE transformations.

Downloads fixed…Empty blog post fixed…

The past couple weeks have been intense, school wise and I have been ignoring cool projects/fixing the downloads section.  I thought I had a pretty solid post on setting up your own streaming webcam site too…until I discovered it had all been mysteriously deleted.  oops!  I took that down, but in the process I found out the wordpress has a sense of humor.  When I compared an older revision of the post against itself, I got these gems:

Oh no!

Am I trapped in The Matrix? 1999?  you decide!

Anyways, I will get that post fixed up soonish, and I will get my recent bio exploits posted soonish, and something about a laser projector.

All coming soon.  ish.